Choosing a backpacking pack is arguably the most subjective gear decision you will make that has the change to majorly impact your on-trail experience. Not only does your pack need to hold all of the food and gear you’re bringing along for months at a time, but it needs to comfortably fit your body to prevent aches and pains from building up with the miles.

I carried the Symbiosis Gear Aspen pack for the entirety of my 3,100-mile thru-hike of the Continental Divide Trail, putting it through the unique brutality of one of the more technical long-distance trails in America.

Using this specific pack on this specific trail reinforced the idea that there is no such thing as the “best” pack, there is only the best pack for your body, your gear, and the terrain of the trail you’ve chosen.

Unfortunately, it can be incredibly challenging to figure out which pack will work for you, especially when navigating cottage-industry ultralight brands that often include customizations and lack the ability to physically try a pack on in advance of a purchase.

After years of gear-testing different packs on different trails, I’ve put together some tips for navigating the current market and choosing the right backpack for you.

 

#1: Gear First, Pack Last

This, to me, is the Golden Rule. If you only take one piece of advice away from this article, let it be this one.

One of the most common mistakes I see is buying a pack and then trying to optimize your other gear to fit inside. Instead, your pack should be one of the last purchases you make, and should be tailored to the gear you plan to bring along.

Generally, your broad category of backpacking pack should be dictated by your Base Weight, which is the weight of all your gear excluding consumables like food, water, and fuel.

Sub-10 lb Base Weight (Ultralight): You are in the territory of frameless packs. These rely on your sleeping pad or a tightly packed load to provide structure. They are light (often under 16 oz) but require discipline in packing and a very minimal, lightweight kit. Often, these packs recommend keeping the total load (including food and water) to under 25-lbs.

10–15 lb Base Weight (Lightweight): This is the sweet spot for ultralight internal frame packs. These packs use minimal stays or a lightweight frame sheet to transfer weight to your hips without the bulk of a traditional suspension.

15 lb+ Base Weight (Traditional): If you carry luxury items, heavy photography gear, or are outfitting for a family, you need a robust internal frame. These packs are designed to handle 30–50+ lb loads comfortably by utilizing thick padding and rigid frames.

#2: Understanding Materials and the Tradeoff of Price and Durability

The cottage gear world has revolutionized pack fabrics, moving away from simple heavy nylon toward high-tech laminates. This does, however, come with some tradeoffs. 

Most heavier packs, like the Osprey Exos or Atmos, are constructed from high-tenacity nylons (often 100D to 400D). These fabrics are incredibly supple, relatively affordable, and have a bit of "give," which helps the pack mold to your gear. If ripped, they are easy to repair with a simple needle and thread.

However, nylon is naturally hydrophilic—it absorbs water. When it rains, your pack gets heavier as the fabric soaks up moisture. To combat this, these packs require a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating that eventually wears off.

If you look at cottage-industry packs like the Symbiosis Gear Aspen, you’ll see materials like 400D Extreema (a brand similar to Dyneema or Ultra).

These are "super-fibers." Extreema is a high-density polyethylene that is 15 times stronger than steel by weight. Because these fabrics are often laminated to a waterproof film, they don't absorb water. If you hike through a downpour, you can simply wipe the pack dry.

These fabrics don't have the soft hand-feel of an Osprey pack, and they are significantly more expensive. You are paying a premium for a fabric that can be dragged across granite or shoved through a thorny brush without a scratch.

Often, when looking at these materials, you’ll see a number followed by a "D". This stands for Denier, which measures the thickness of the individual threads. Higher Denier means a higher durability, but at the expense of a weight penalty.

#3: Pack Features 

Arguably, the most important part of a pack is how it fits to your body. There are a handful of measurements that play a part in this.

Torso Length

The most critical measurement is your torso length (from your C7 vertebra to your iliac crest). If a pack is too long, the weight will sag off your shoulders; too short, and the hip belt will sit around your waist rather than your hips.

Shoulder Strap Shape

J-Straps: The traditional straight shape. Best for people with broader shoulders or flatter chests.

S-Straps: Designed with a curve to contour around the chest. These are often the preferred choice for women or hikers with curvier builds or sloping shoulders.

Hip Belts

The primary job of a hip belt is load transfer. A well-designed internal frame pack funnels the weight of your gear through the frame and directly onto your iliac crest (the top of your hip bones). By shifting the weight to your hips, you engage your strongest muscle groups while sparing your relatively weak shoulders and spine from bearing the brunt of the load.

When your load is light enough, the pressure on your shoulders is negligible. In these cases, many people prefer to go without a hip belt, as you’ll have a bit more mobility while saving a few ounces of weight.

#4: Understanding How Terrain Impacts Pack Decision

When choosing a pack, you must look beyond your gear list and consider the specific geography of your intended route, as the terrain/weather ultimately determines what your pack needs to do for you. 

On high desert tracks like the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) or Arizona Trail (AZT), your pack’s external storage becomes its most critical asset. You need oversized, durable side pockets capable of securely hauling four to six liters of water, paired with a rugged face fabric that won't shred when brushed against desert catclaw or prickly pear cactus.

In contrast, the off-trail nature of more technical trails like the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) demands more of a focus on stability and agility. For this environment, you should prioritize a low-profile pack that hugs your torso and stays centered over your center of gravity. This prevents the sway or momentum shifts that can be dangerous during scrambles.

Finally, if your miles are mostly spent in rainy areas like the Appalachian Trail (AT) or the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT), moisture management and waterproofing is the name of the game. In high-humidity environments, it is wise to prioritize inherently waterproof laminates like Ultra or DCF to prevent the pack fabric from absorbing water weight. Regardless of the fabric, you'll also want to ensure the pack's shape is compatible with a reliable internal pack liner to keep your sleep system bone-dry during weeks of relentless precipitation.

When the Aspen is the Right Choice

The Aspen is a specialized backpack design for a specific niche. As a pack, it’s wonderful, but you could end up hating it if you put it in a situation it was not designed for.

It excels as an ultralight internal frame pack for hikers whose base weights hover between 9 and 14 pounds. I’ve loaded the pack up to as much as 30-lbs, but have found the pack to be the most comfortable when around 25-lbs fully loaded.

The Aspen may be right for you if:

1. You have already dialed in your Big Three (tent, sleep system, pad) and need a refined carry.
2. You prefer a pack that moves with your body during active hiking.
3. You’ve previously struggled to find a pack that feels good with your body shape.

When the Aspen Might NOT be the Right Choice

If your total pack weight (including food/water) consistently exceeds 30–35 lbs, the Aspen’s will begin to reach its limit and your shoulders may pay the price. And, if you haven't weighed your gear yet, a more adjustable pack may provide the margin of error you need while you learn what to leave behind.

 

Final Advice

The best pack is the one you forget you’re wearing by mile ten. Buy a pack for the gear you actually own and the body you have today instead of choosing an aspiration pack that will force you to spend thousands of dollars to whittle your gear down into. 

If possible, load a pack with 20 lbs of weight and walk around. Your hips and shoulders will tell you more in five minutes than a spec sheet ever could.

 

Some Examples of Packs for Different Use Cases

If you frequently carry total loads over 35 pounds—perhaps due to long water carries in the desert or professional camera gear—brands like ULA Equipment (with the Circuit or Catalyst) or LiteAF (the Curve) provide more robust suspension systems and higher-volume capacities. 

For those prioritizing maximum ventilation and the comfort of a trampoline back panel, brands like Osprey (the Exos/Eja series) or Gregory (the Focal) remain the gold standard for beginner-friendly accessibility and localized retail fitting. 

 

Written by Katie Jackson